Naruko Raw Job’s Tears Brightening Night Gelly 紅薏仁健康雪白晚安凍膜 Review

So several months ago, I had the pleasure of reviewing the Naruko Raw Job’s Tears Supercritical CO2 Pore Minimizing & Brightening Night Gelly  and I loved it, but it did have some challenges .  Naruko has revamped and reformulated their Raw Job’s Tears line and shortened the name to the Raw Job’s Tears Brightening ~ is there hope on the horizon that Naruko will shorten all their names?   I have reviewed so many Naruko products  in the past (see reviews here). Naruko is a Taiwanese brand that I was introduced to by the now defunct monthly sheet mask service MaskGenie which had a Naruko Snail mask it. 

I have been on a long love affair with Naruko, especially their tea tree line, but I also love their Job’s Tear line as well.  Naruko Canada/USA sent me three of their newly formulated Raw Job’s Tears products for review purposes and this blog post  is focusing on the sleep pack.  Taiwan’s leading skincare brand is Naruko and their night gellys are very popular.  Naruko claims that one is sold very 2 minutes!  You can use CouponCode0527 promo code to save 10% off your orders at either Naruko Canada or Naruko USA   ~ I don’t make any commissions off the code, this is just a thank you for my readers.

Skin Type/Concerns: Oily, blemish prone, pores, aging skin with fine lines/wrinkles and hyper-pigmentation ~ sun damage and PIH

All reviews are my own honest opinion and  I never have been asked to write copy for a brand.  This blog post might contain promo codes, affiliate and referral links, which using my links will help generate a small commission that helps support my blog at no extra cost to you.

Why do you need a sleeping mask pack?   You can use a cream, I know I have ~ but make sure it is an occlusive cream.  A sleeping mask pack is more occlusive than most moisturizers and the reason for this is simple.  It helps lock in all of your other skin care products and can reduce trans-epidermal water loss, which is very important as you sleep.  One thing to note ~ occlusive ingredients do not bring moisture into your skin, but use the existing moisture to reabsorb it back into the skin, due to its barrier function.  That is why just a sleeping pack is not enough at night ~ you need to ensure that you have done a hydrating skincare routine before locking it all in with a sleeping mask pack. Occlusives don’t feel that great on my oily skin for day time use ~ it is too greasy, too oily ~ but for nighttime use, I do not mind.  Your skin needs to recover and with a good occlusive product, it can help reset or reboot your skin, resulting in smoother and softer skin when you wake up.  Your skin will repair itself overnight, so using a product with beneficial nutrients and ingredients as your last step will create a protective barrier to lock in ingredients and prevent your skin from drying out.   

Key Ingredients

Job’s tears (Coix lachryma-jobi)  by Leonardo da Vinci

Job’s Tears (coix lacryma-jobi)  also known as Chinese Barley, Pearl Barley, Adlay Millet.  This ingredient is an anti-inflammatory and will help reduce redness and swelling, along with helping to detox and firm your skin.  It also contains coixenolide, a fatty acid, which helps reduce blemishes and hyper-pigmentation as it can inhibit the melanin production of your skin.  Job’s Tears are also rich in iron, phosphorus and calcium minerals as well as a trio of B vitamins: B1 (thiamine), B2 (riboflavin) and B3 (niacin) and niacin is known for its skin brightening properties.  Naruko  uses organic raw Job’s Tears from Nantou,Taiwan. They use a technology that helps extract all of the active ingredients, which provide anti-aging benefits and moisturization.   One thing that I am sad about is that this ingredient has been moved from the old formula’s 2nd ingredient to the new formula’s somewhere in the middle of the ingredients list.

Other skin brightening ingredients include tranexamic acid, derived from lysine. This synthetic amino acid has smoothing, brightening and astringent properties. It helps suppress the effects of melanin, causing a reduction of hyper-pigmentation. Niacinamide is a powerful antioxidant that helps even out skin tone, reduce post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation while acting as an anti-inflammatory, enhancing your skin barrier function and improving skin elasticity. 

Tremella Fuciformis,  or snow fungus, is a white gelatinous parasitic fungus that has been used in TCM (traditional Chinese medicine) for centuries, as well as for culinary dishes. It draws water to the skin, just like hyaluronic acid, helping keep your skin hydrated and moist, plumping up fine lines and wrinkles. It is supposed to be 120% more efficient than HA, as its particles are smaller than hyaluronic acid ~ it penetrates your skin better and more easier. Snow fungus is a natural organic alternative to hyaluronic acid. It contains Vitamin D, the sunshine vitamin ~ we need produce it when we get it thru exposure to the sun and also in foods and supplements. Also, snow fungus is an antioxidant, helping combat and reserve free radical damage, including lightening of hyper-pigmentation spots.

Arbutin breaks down into hydroquinone, which is a compound that prevents melanin formation and is a common ingredient in skin-lightening products. However, arbutin is much gentler and safer than straight up hydroquinone.  Firming and brightening ubiquinone ~ also known as CoQ10, helps with elastin production and is an antioxidant.    Anti-oxidant rich morus alba (mulberry) helps slow down aging process, by combating free radicals, removing dead skin cells.  It is also known for its brightening properties as it also contains arbutin ~ helping to  reduce the appearance of spots caused by hyper-pigmentation. 

Retinol (retinyl)  palmitate is one of my favorite ingredients and this is an ester/derivative of retinol. It will convert to retinol and then to retinoic acid once it is applied and absorbed topically by the skin. Retinyl palmitate is less irritating than retinol, but its benefits are similar, but on a more gentle level, so effects will take longer. Retinol is an active and it helps promotes cellular turnover and I have used Retin-A, a prescription strength version, years ago and it really helped with my blemishes. Its other side effect that makes this ingredient so wonderful, is it will help lighten PIH, age/sun-damage hyper-pigmentation and reduce fine lines and wrinkles, while making your skin smooth.

Panthenol  helps cellular renewal and is an effective moisturizer. It is derived from plants and this ingredient comes from Vitamin B5. Panthenol is a natural humectant, which retains moisture and hydrates the skin. It also is a good lubricant on the skin, making skin look soft and smooth. It is also an anti-inflammatory along with oleanolic acidPolyquaternium-51 is a moisturizer that helps improve your skin’s moisture retention and also prevents moisture loss from your skin, as it creates a protective layer over your skin.

This also contains moisturizing phospholipids which will  help repair and protect your barrier function. Black yeast produced pullulan is full of  water-binding polysaccharides and antioxidant. Centella asiatica is a common herbal ingredient that is used medicinally to help speed up wound healing, such as blemishes and skin rashes. It also helps minimize the appearance of pores. Caffeine helps reduce puffiness, by stimulating and improving blood circulation 

Phytoferulin is Naruko’s blend of 11 concentrated herbal ingredients: kalanchoe pinnata, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root, alpine skullcap (scutellaria alpina), masterwort (peucedanum ostruthium), ginkgo biloba, alps wormwood (artemisia umbelliformis),  leontopodium alpinum , alpine willowherb (epilobium fleischeri) , calendula officinalis , chamomilla recutita (matricaria) and , camellia sinensis (green tea) extracts.   This complex will help prevent hyper-pigmentation and environmental stress to your skin, while being a powerful antioxidant and brightening agent. This complex is very effective in hydrating your skin, while controlling oil.

ingredients marked with ** are part of Naruko’s exclusively patented complex Phytoferulin  

New Formula Ingredients:  Water, Propanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Propylene  Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Butylene Glycol, Fragrance, Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Hydroxide, Ubiquinone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract**, Caprylyl Glycol, Arbutin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Phragmites Communis Extract, Glycerin, Curcuma Kwangsiensis Extract, Curcuma  Wenyujin Extract, Glycynhiza Uralensis (Licorice) Root Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Pullulan,  Taiwan Jobs Tears (Coix  Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen) Seed Extract,  Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Lycium Chinense Root Extract, Salvia Miltionhiza Root Extract, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Morus Alba Extract, Yeast Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Phospholipids, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Escin, Sodium Citrate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract**, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Citric Acid, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Leaf Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Benzoate, Poria Cocos Extract, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract**, Epilobium Fleischeri Extract**,  Leontopodium Alpinum Extract**, Centella Asiatica Extract, Caffeine, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract** Potassium Sorbate, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract**, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract**, Glycynhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract**, Peucedanum Ostruthium Leaf Extract,** Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract**, Oleanolic Acid, Biotin cosDNA

Original Formula Ingredients: Water, Taiwan Jobs Tears (Coix Lacryma-Jobi) Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Gluconolactone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Dimethicone, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Curuma Kwansiensis/Curcuma Wenyujin Rhizome Extract, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Kalanchoe Spathulata Extract**, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Arbutin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Creatine, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Propylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract**, Scutellaria Alpina Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract**, Peucedarium Ostruthium Leaf Extract**, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract**, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract**, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract**, Epilobium Fleuischeri Extract**, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract **, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract** , Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract**, Yeast Extract, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Phragmites Karka Extract, Fragrance, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Panthenol, Zinc Gluconate, Caffeine, Biotin, Poria Cocos Extract, Coix Jacryma-Jobi Seed Extract, Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Polyoxyethylene-Sorbitan-Monooleate, Retinol Palmitate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Mulberry Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera Leaf Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Glycine Soja Protein, Oleanolic Acid cosDNA 

The tub has gone from a rich maroon to white, with maroon lettering and a deep maroon lid.  I will say that this looks so very different from the old formula!  This is more creamy looking, with a pinkish-beige shade.  It isn’t a memory cream, but a rich jelly that reminds me a lot of those pig collagen jellies that were so popular several years ago.  Unlike those pig collagen jellies , this has a lovely scent ~ warm and earthy, very much like a yeasty bread.  This also doesn’t have that sticky feel that pig collagen jellies had either. 

The jelly is cooling to my skin and it dries down fairly fast….  AND it doesn’t pill at at!   My skin does feels very moisturized at this point and it is not sticky or tacky.   In the morning, this has absorbed nicely into my skin, leaving is soft and smooth. Again, I didn’t see the brightening effect, but this time, I did see more pore minimizing effects and it does help with oil control ~  leaving  my skin looking and feeling less greasy, while leaving my skin looking healthy.

Naruko even has a nice massaging technique using any of their Night Jellys

image from naruko

So, the differences from the old formula and the new formula has made this a much better product!  The original formula was a translucency gel with a grainy texture.  It took a while to absorb and if I used too much of it, it would pill.  The new formula is a creamy, pinkish-beige gel-cream, doesn’t pill up, absorbs quickly and I also like using this as a day time moisturizer!  In fact, the description on Naruko’s online store does say to use it in both your morning and night time routines.

After doing a bit of copy and paste, editing, sorting and comparing, I came up with a list of ingredient changes.  Looking at the list, I don’t see any major “OMG they removed this ingredient, what ever SHALL I DO?” moments. They removed a lot, but added in about the same amount with similar benefits.  They removed a few vitamin C ingredients, PHA and BHA, but honestly, I won’t miss them ~ this product’s strength was with the original trinity of  Job’s Tears, niacinamide and tranexamic acid for brightening.  Naruko did add in ubiquinone, which can help with lightening sun damaged spots.   I put all of the comparison ingredients at the end of the blog post, if you are interested in seeing what was taken out and added in.   Quite frankly, I like the revamped formula much better as the texture of the gel-cream is not grainy, doesn’t pill and I can also use it as a day time moisturizer!  Win-Win ~ I do recommend this one.  Look for my next review on a Naruko Job’s Tears product that I have never tried before ~ Raw Job’s Tears Brightening Essence

 

Where To Purchase

This new formula is sold at Naruko, of course!    Naruko has several different stores around the world too.  Naruko Canada and Naruko USA ship to Canada and the USA.  Use CouponCode0527 promo code to save 10% off your orders at either Naruko Canada or Naruko USA on any purchase  ~ I don’t make any commissions off the code, this is just a thank you for my readers.  All prices are in USD

Naruko USA offers flat rate shipping of $6.99 for orders under $74.99 and free shipping for orders over $75.00.   Naruko Canada is a bit more complicated so I did a screen shot here of their shipping rates.

Old Formula

Bye-Bye ~ these ingredients are gone

  • ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (surfactant, viscosity control)
  • ascorbyl glucoside (antioxidant, brightening)
  • creatine (skin conditioning)
  • dimethicone (emollient)
  • dipotassium glycyrrhizate (anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic)
  • ethyl ascorbic acid (antioxidant, brightening)
  • ethylhexylglycerin (moisturizer)
  • gluconolactone (PHA exfoliator)
  • glyceryl caprylate (emollient, emulsifier)
  • glycine soja protein (emollient, emulsifier)
  • houttuynia cordata extract (skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, healing)
  • lactobacillus/pear juice ferment filtrate (skin conditioning)
  • melia azadirachta leaf extract (skin conditioning, antibacterial)
  • octyldodecyl myristate (emollient)
  • o-cymen-5-ol (preservative)
  • PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (surfactant)
  • phellodendron amurense bark extract (skin conditioning)
  • polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (surfactant, emulsifier)
  • rehmannia chinensis root extract (skin conditioning)
  • salicyloyl phytosphingosine (skin conditioning)
  • salix alba bark extract (skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, astringent, natural source of BHA)
  • scutellaria baicalensis root extract (skin conditioning)
  • sodium polyacrylate starch (viscosity control)
  • vibrio alginolyticus ferment filtrate (skin conditioning)
  • xanthan gum (viscosity control)

New Formula

Make way for the new kids on the block!!  These were added into the formula

  • algae extract (skin conditioning, moisturizer, emollient)
  • angelica polymorpha sinensis root extract (antioxidant)
  • caprylyl glycol (moisturizer, emollient)
  • carbomer (viscosity control)
  • centella asiatica extract   (skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, healing)
  • cetyl ethylhexanoate (synthetic ester, viscosity control, emollient)
  • citric acid (AHA, pH adjusters)
  • cornus officinalis fruit extract (skin conditioning)
  • cyclopentasiloxane (solvent, emollient)
  • escin (anti-inflammatory)
  • glycyrrhiza uralensis (licorice) root extract (skin conditioning)
  • hydrogenated polyisobutene (emollient)
  • hydrolyzed yeast protein (skin conditioning)
  • lycium chinense root extract (skin conditioning)
  • phospholipids (moisturizer, emollient)
  • polyquatemium-51 (moisturizer)
  • potassium hydroxide (pH adjusters)
  • potassium sorbate (preservative)
  • propanediol (solvent, viscosity control)
  • pullulan (polysaccharide, hydrating, thickener, antioxidant)
  • ruscus aculeatus root extract (skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, astringent)
  • salvia miltionhiza root extract (skin conditioning)
  • simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (moisturizer, emollient)
  • sodium benzoate (preservative)
  • sodium citrate (ph adjusters, antioxidant)
  • sodium polyacrylate (viscosity control)
  • ubiquinone (antioxidant, brightening)

Replaced

These were ingredients that were straight up substitutions within the same plant family

  • Antioxidant succulent in their Phytoferulin formula:  OLD:  kalanchoe spathulata vs NEW:: kalanchoe pinnata 
  • Skin conditioning OLD::  phragmites karka extract vs NEW::  phragmites communis extract
  • Antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory OLD:: curuma kwansiensis/curcuma wenyujin rhizome extract vs NEW::  curcuma kwangsiensis extract and curcuma wenyujin extract

 

[ some products were received in exchange for a review ] 

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