Unboxing Beauty

Several weeks ago, I purchased a few items that I wanted to incorporate into my skin care regime.   L’Herboflore Lemonbalm Hydrating Sleep Mask Pack, found at Beautibi, and Kosmatology Lemongrass Foaming Facial Cleanser and Facial Oil.    I have used these 3 products daily for the last couple of weeks and I am ready to give an initial impression review.

 

My skin concerns:  oily, hormonal blemish prone, anti-aging concerns ~ hyper-pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles.

I used the facial oil and hydrating mask nightly, along with my other nightly skin care products and the cleanser twice daily ~ morning and night.

Kosmatolgy Lemongrass Facial Line (source)

Acne and Rosacea are two of the most common skin conditions and can have a negative impact on self esteem. While many treatments involve antibiotics and harsh drying agents, our products use essential oils and herbs to combat the causes of acne and rosacea.  Our Acne/Rosacea prone skin wash contains:

• Rosemary which has antimicrobial effects and prevents bacteria from infecting pores
• Lemongrass which is a natural toner and helps close pores. Lemongrass is a natural toner, it shrinks pore size and tightens and firms skin. Lemongrass also has unique antifungal, antimicrobial and antiseptic properties that allows it to be an amazing astringent. The combination of these effects are essential to fighting Acne vulgaris, the bacteria that causes acne.
• Lavender which helps regulate the amount of sebum our skin produces.  Lavender balances the oil production of the skin, making it beneficial for both oily and dry skin. Lavender aids in regulating the production and over-excretion of sebum. Sebum is the oily/waxy substance which the body produces to moisturize the skin. Over-production and excretion of sebum causes oily skin and clogged pores which can lead to acne and other skin issues. Due to the effects Lavender has on sebum, it can reduce acne, especially on the back, forehead and chin where Sebaceous glands are more prevalent. Lavender also promotes skin healing and rejuvenation and can reduce scarring.
• The base consists of a gentle blend of olive oil, coconut oil and castor oil.

The companion Acne/Rosacea prone skin moisturizing oil contains the same essential oils as the face wash but also includes Chamomile and Calendula to calm the skin and reduce redness and swelling. The base is a mixture of Hemp Seed oil and Grapeseed oil which are very light and will not clog your pores.

Kosmatology Lemongrass Foaming Face Wash (for acne/rosacea prone skin)  Kosmatology is one of my favorite organic and natural skin care brands and I was introduced to them by Kloverbox.   They really make great scrubs and balms, and I was curious about their lemongrass line, as it is designed for oily, blemish prone skin.   Their cleanser is basically all oils, with 2 exceptions ~ water and potassium hydroxide, which is not only a pH stabilizer but also allows for the foaming to occur.

The first thing I notice is the scent ~ it is a sharp herbal blend and I can smell the rosemary right away with lemongrass and lavender lurking behind it.  It really is a lovely scent if you enjoy herbal scented items, which I do.  The second thing I notice is the texture of this foam.  I will try to describe it but mere words may not do the job properly.  It is silky, creamy, with a great slip to it. It feels like a dreamy, whipped silky oil and it is lightweight, but again, has that good oil feel to it.  If a cloud had a texture, this would be it.   Seriously, this is one of the best foaming cleansers I have felt on my face in a long time.    It actually foams up a lot better than the photo below ~ I always have a hard time getting foam cleanser shots because I have a hand held camera ~ so I have to foam up my hands, then wipe my other hand on my pants, as not to disrupt my foaming photo hand, grab my camera and take the photo one handed.  So, by the time this all gets said and done, the foam has lost some of its volume.  However, it does foam up nicely and cleans my face wonderfully ~ the benefits of all of those lovely oils ~ without stripping it dry.

I even did an oil/moisture test a few times on my face after I cleansed and it does show that it is not affecting my moisture levels in my skin.  The first test, shown below, was shortly after I washed my face, so I did additional tests and the initial test was pretty much accurate and within range.  My face registered between a 40.2 and 42.7 with subsequent tests.

I also did a pH level test and this is where it gets confusing.  By all standards, this looks to be an 8.5 or so on the strip test (3 out of the 4 squares match between a 8 and 9) but the 3 square turns a dark red, which throws it up to the 10 pH level.   I am not sure what each square means, so if any of my readers can help me with that, as I did do some research but couldn’t find anything conclusive ~ I am not a scientist, so it was very difficult to find anything on pH level testing.  It could be that with all of the oils in this product, it was throwing off the pH testing as well, as you really cannot test an oil cleanser with a pH strip properly.   I use a very popular pH strip kit, which I am displaying below as well

I did reach out to Janis at Kosmatology to find out what the pH level was

The pH of both of our face washes is an 8.  I purposefully keep the pH just into the alkaline range so that bacteria and other microbes can not grow in the product and I do not have to add harmful preservatives.  Depending on the literature you read, the optimal pH for a face wash is between 5.5 and 9.  If your product is in the 5.5 to 7 range, you will need to add some type of preservative.  The 8-9 range will not require a preservative.  I feel the pH of 8 is still close enough to neutral to not strip the skin (I also use the product twice daily for the last 3 years and have never found it over drying or stripping.) and I also feel the benefit of not adding harmful preservatives definitely outweighs the small risk of the product being too drying with a slightly alkaline pH.   

Janis also attached her pH level test strip to show it was an 8.  Now, they use a different brand and one that only registers one shade, so there will be differences

So, I guess my rule of thumb is, if my skin can handle the pH level and it doesn’t dry or strip my face from its natural oils, I would use it.  I have used cleansers as high as 10 without any ill effects and ones that were low in pH that totally burned my face.  Since this cleanser is basically all oils, with a foaming compound, I have the feeling that the oils are throwing the pH level test off.   You cannot really test with these strips the level of an oil cleanser, due to the nature of how these strips operate.   I also appreciated that Janis explained how that if they brought the pH level down further, they would have to add a preservative in the cleanser to ensure that no bacteria can grow in the cleanser.  I learned something new that day!

Ingredients: Aqua, Organic Olea europaea (Olive) oil, Organic Cocos nucifera (Coconut) oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Organic Elaeis guineensis (Palm Kernal) oil, Organic Ricinus communis (Castor) oil, Organic Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) essential oil, Organic Cymbopogon flexuosus (Lemongrass) essential oil, Organic Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) essential oil  cosDNA.com analysis

Kosmatology Lemongrass Facial Oil (acne/oily/rosacea skin)   I do use facial oils and one of my favorites is a Korean one, which I am holding back on revealing what that is at this time!!  However, I have tried facial oils that are designed for oily skin ~ when I first heard about facial oils, I ran away from them, because they were usually designed for dry skin.   Many still are ~ companies figure an oil is an oil and that is that.  However, other companies are creating oil formulas that are designed for oily/blemish prone skin, such as Joeur Daily Clarifying Treatment Oil, which I do own,and dry oils, which do not leave a greasy or heavy film behind.   Putting a facial oil designed for oily/acne prone skin on your face is something I highly recommend as it delivers essential fatty acids right into your outer skin layer, where it will not only hydrate and moisturize, but protect your skin from external damage.

What I really like about Kosmatology Lemongrass Oil is that its first two ingredients, grape seed and hemp oil, are very lightweight oils that do not clog pores.   I was surprised not to see  some neem oil in here, as that really does help with acne and blackheads as it is a antimicrobial, but it has to be used in small amounts.  Lemongrass and rosemary seems to be taking the place of neem oil here, as both are  contain anti-microbial and anti-bacterial ingredient.   The main oils in here are really fantastic for oily skin as well ~ grape seed oil is a good choice for the base, as it is high in vitamins C and E and is a dry oil.  As this Facial Oil is also for rosacea skin sufferers, grape seed oil is wonderful for that issue as well.   Hemp oil is also a great choice for oily skin, contains omega-6 and omega-3 essential fatty acids, as well as vitamin D, which results in softer, smoother and hydrated skin. 

This oil has the same rich rosemary scent, with lavender and lemongrass notes, as the cleanser.  It is a pale olive green in color in the bottle, but when applied and massaged into my skin, it is colorless and it absorbs quickly and pretty dry.  I only need 3 to 5 drops for my face and neck.    I have tried to do a moisture skin analysis with this oil, but what I have found is that my digital analyzer is extremely sensitive to oils and does not read them that well.    What I did do was compare this oil to Joeur Daily Clarifying Treatment Oil ~ I did one side of my face with Kosmatology Lemongrass Facial Oil  and the other side with Joeur and then apply the L’Herboflore Lemonbalm Hydrating sleep pack on both sides.  The results were very similar (morning after)

• Kosmatology: 16.9% oil/37.7% moist
• Joeur: 18.1% oil/40.3% moist

The readings for Kosmatology were pretty consistent when I tested the my skin the morning after.   All in all, this is one of my favorite facial oils and I love the scent, how it feels on my skin and my face has not experienced any acne or rashes since I have been using it.  This is now in my top 2 facial oils  and this is a huge bottle at a great price. It will last me a long time!   Full Size 2 oz RV $24.99

Ingredients: Organic Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed) Oil, Organic Cannibis Sativa (Hemp Seed) oil, Olea europaea (Olive) oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Anthemis nobilis (Chamomile) oil, Sambucus nigra (elderberry) Fruit Extract, Organic Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) essential oil, Organic Cymbopogon flexuosus (Lemongrass) essential oil, Calendula officinalis (Calendula) oil, Organic Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) essential oil  cosDNA.com analysis

 

L’Herboflore Lemon Balm Hydrating Mask  I remember when Beautibi was giving us sneak peeks into upcoming L’Herboflore products in their shop ~ I really enjoy their facial masks and when I saw this item, I knew I really wanted to try it!   This product is a sleeping pack ~ all that means is that after your normal nightly skincare routine, you would apply this product on top of those products, sealing in and protecting your skin with all of those wonderful skin care products you just applied.    A sleep pack also has its own benefits as well, and depending on the type you purchase, it can vary.   I chose this one for two reasons ~ it is a gel-cream, which means it is light and not heavy, perfect for my skin type and that this is a brightening sleep pack as well.

We all know by now what these products can do for your skin ~ your moisturizers of Aloe Barbadensis, Sodium Hyaluronate, Mannitol (algae) and Hyaluronic Acid; Allantoin for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties;  Citric Acid to help heal and reduce blemishes and hyper-pigmentation; Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (licorice) for reducing hyper-pigmentation and is an anti-inflammatory.

More Key Ingredients:

• Squalane is a wonderful moisturizing ingredient, which can absorb quickly into your skin.  This ingredient is an antioxidant, which helps promote cell growth, while combating free radicals and reserving skin damage.  It will help prevent new hyper-pigmentation in age spots and also has antibacterial properties.
• Melissa Officinalis (Lemon Balm) has strong anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and can calm, soothe and heal your skin, great for blemish prone skin.    It also contains flavonoids, which have an antioxidant effect and due to this herb’s tannins compounds, it is also an astringent and antiviral.   Lemon Balm is used a lot in skincare because it has such wonderful properties and this herb goes back centuries for medicinal use.
• Polyquaternium-51 is a moisturizer that helps improve your skin’s moisture retention and also prevents moisture loss from your skin, as it creates a protective layer over your skin.

Description: A gel-creme mask that does not require wash-off, and is easily absorbed by the skin. Lemon Balm Extract has a fragrance that combines the sweetness of honey and freshness of lemon, and can refresh and brighten the complexion. Polyquaternium-51, Allantoin and Algae Extract are highly effective moisturizing ingredients that can deeply nourish and soothe the skin.

First off, let me just say how I love the design and packaging on this item!  Really sweet design of rain watering plants and a rowboat in a lake, to denote the hydrating and moisturizing properties of this cream!  The cream is a pale yellow color that disappears once massaged into my skin.  I didn’t really smell lemon balm, which is an herb that smells like lemons with a bit of mint ~ instead it was a bit medicinal, but very faint.  I was a bit disappointed in the lack of scent with this product, but better no scent than some horrible floral scent!

This is a gel-cream, as you can see below, and it does absorb very quickly into my skin.  I actually would apply two layers of this cream, letting the first one absorb completely and then apply the next layer.  This is very common with gel-creams ~ I find with all of the gel-cream sleep packs, I have to apply two layers ~ whether it is the cosRX Honey or the Holika Holika Honey sleep pack.   I actually like this, as that means I can use this as a daytime moisturizer and that would save on some space when I travel.   As this does absorb so quickly, I am not sure I would recommend this for dry skin, unless you plan on putting on a third layer or top it off with another product.

That said, this is a very hydrating product!  I did test out the moisture level a few times without the oil underneath it and wow ~ I was getting readings that ranged from 18.9%/42.2% to 20.8%/46.3% the MORNING AFTER.   When I waited 30 minutes after application, I was getting readings that averaged around 25%/57%  (the ratios are the oil/moist readings).    When I used Kosmotology Lemongrass Facial Oil with this product, the reading I received 30 minutes after was 21.3%/47.5%

 

 

So, no doubt about it, this is a very hydrating sleep pack!  Again, due to its ingredients, I did not experience any new blemishes or issues using this sleep pack.  Full Size 180 mL RV $34.00

Ingredients: Aqua (water), Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsequioxane, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane, PEG-40 Stearate, Steareth-2,  Steareth-21, Cetearyl Methicone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Isoceteth-20, PEG-400, Sodium Polyacrylolyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan), Propylene Glycol, Squalane, Butylene Glycol,  Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melissa Officinalis (Lemon Balm) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water, Caprylyl Glycol, 1, 2-Hexanediol., PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,  Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Mannitol, Sodium Citrate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15, Allantoin, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Hyaluronic Acid, Fragrance, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Sulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Methylisothiazolinone, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, CI 18965, CI 45430  cosDNA.com analysis

 

Final Thoughts

All three of these products are really excellent items for my skin type and concerns.   I really enjoyed using all of them together, and feel that this was a good mix of products.  I don’t think I’ve even done a review of where I mixed an eco-friendly, natural organic product with a Korean skin care item, so I am pleased to say that this Easts meets West did work out very well for me! 

I will repurchase the facial oil and sleep pack as I felt those two items were the standout items in the trio.  I am hoping that Kosmatology comes out with a pure oil cleanser in the Lemongrass line ~ the foaming cleanser is a bit expensive for me, as I do go thru a lot daily.   It is a wonderful cleanser, however, and it does feel so decadent on your skin.   I use less product with oil cleansers for some reason and would love them branch out to produce that.

If you have dry skin or have anti-aging concerns, Kosmatology also makes the cleanser and oil in a Rose Geranium formula, which I am sure is just as great as the Lemongrass formula

Where to Purchase

• Kosmatology Lemongrass Foaming Face Wash  Kosmatology
• Kosmatology Lemongrass Facial Oil  Kosmatology
• L’Herboflore Lemon Balm Hydrating Mask  Beautibi.com